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Newsletter... |
My amazing journey through Sudan!!
Excerpts and Photos from my Travel Journal
Report written on my tour to Sudan
by Ihab Zaki
What a country! Nothing had prepared me for this adventure and
what I would be seeing in Sudan. An abundance of archaeological
sites that are so pristine as very few tourists have visited
them. In two weeks we saw just two travelers from Switzerland
in one of our hotels! The sites were incredible and every day
brought us new and wonderful experiences.
As the plane approached the airport in Khartoum I took in the
dramatic sunset over the convergence of the blue and white
Nile. After landing and formalities I was taken to the elegant
(though a bit in need of face lift) Grand Villa Hotel. A place
that hosted in its golden days famous people such as Winston
Churchill, King Farouk and many other notables. There I met
with my fourteen fellow travelers and our Italian guide
Stefano. It was a reunion of sorts as this first Sudan
departure was offered primarily to loyal repeat customers, most
of whom I have met on many occasions in different parts of the
Near East through the past years. We had a great dinner at the
hotel where we enjoyed the cold non-alcoholic beer. The hotel
has many amenities including Internet service, cable TV with
CNN, hot water, air conditioning but its best asset is that it
overlooks the Nile. It was the perfect haven for our first two
nights in country.
Our first full day began with a four-hour extensive visit to
the National Museum that gave us a perfect introduction to the
Sudan historical timeline. Though the building itself is quite
shabby it does not detract from the many beautiful pieces on
display. Most importantly it has protected several small
temples that have been placed in large glass buildings with tin
roofs to keep them safe from weather conditions. Stefano opened
our eyes to the marvels we were about to see in Sudan. We
stopped for a leisurely lunch at a Nile-view restaurant before
heading back to the hotel and took advantage of a free
afternoon to get over the jet lag and rest from the long trip
from the US.
Next morning, the true adventure started…in a convoy of five
modern air-conditioned Toyota 4x4 vehicles. We were divided
comfortably, three per car, and met our capable drivers who by
the end of the trip were very dear to us. We hit the paved road
heading to the ancient region of Meroe. Before arriving at our
tented camp, Stefano surprised us by making a stop where we
walked up to the peak of a sandy dune for a stunning view of
the Necropolis of Meroe with its multitude of pyramids. It was
one of those rare moments when you arrive at a site and stand
stupefied in awe and start clicking frantically on your camera
taking pictures from every imaginable angle until you realize
that you just need to stop and take in the moment. It was
sunset, the time of gloaming when the light is ideally shining
softly on the majestic and desolate necropolis. From here a few
of us decided to prolong our experience by riding camels to the
camp while the rest proceeded with the vehicles.
We had a lovely camp with large comfortable tents that had two
beds each, table, cupboard, desk, chair and a ceiling fan.
Lights were turned on from sunset until 11PM. Each tent had its
own spacious, clean, private bathroom behind it, and a terrace
in front with a view overlooking the tops of the pyramids that
was stunning! The camp’s dining area or rest house was
excellent and every evening we enjoyed drinks and snacks on the
veranda. For three days we were served gourmet meals prepared
by a chef trained by the Italian managers. We dined on fabulous
Fetuccini Alfredo, eggplant dishes and roast beef platters
worthy of 5 star establishments.
Our time spent in the region of Meroe was exciting and
illuminating. On our second day we drove on unpaved roads to
several small but wonderful temples and were introduced to the
Nubian deities that were added to the Egyptian pantheon of
gods. We visited a marvelous city called Musawarat, a vast
place with reliefs of elephants and unusual ramps that we
learned were for the training of elephants before engaging in
wars (it is where Hannibal’s herd was trained). The complex had
temples, colonnaded streets, palaces and other buildings
scattered over miles and miles.
We broke for lunch, enjoyed picnic style, in the shade of some
large trees. Our drivers set up folding chairs and tables with
cloths covered with a light, delicious and fresh fare. We dined
this way most days on a menu of pasta dishes, hard boiled eggs,
beans, feta cheese, salads, minced meats and fresh fruits
always followed by hot tea and coffee. Everyone agreed our
picnics were always a great event that we looked forward to
each day. As we sat and enjoyed our feast this first day, we
discussed as a group the issue of Darfur and Stefano added
insights from the perspective of someone close to the situation
by virtue of living in the country.
The following day was spent at that Necropolis that we viewed
when we first arrived. We hiked up and walked from one pyramid
to the next and saw some wonderful reliefs in the mortuary
temples attached to them. Pity many of the tops of those
pyramids (40 in number) were chopped off by the Italian
explorer Giuseppe Ferlini in a quest for treasure in the
1820’s. One of the highlights of our time spent in Meroe is
when we took a private motorboat to sail the Nile through the
4th cataract. We stopped in a small Nubian village and visited
their simple school where we met the children and their
teachers.
We departed Meroe and headed to the northern town of Karima
where we stayed at a beautiful Nubian-style hotel set in a
garden of gorgeous flowers. The eleven tastefully decorated
rooms each had private bathrooms with hot and cold running
water. The main building housed the restaurant and a great
patio from where we enjoyed spectacular sunrises and sunsets
every day! Again we had sumptuous food, especially the fresh
omelets and crepes for breakfast.
In Karima, we visited several necropolises with more pyramids
and vividly colored tombs from the 25th dynasty of the Black
Pharaohs. We explored the temples of Amon Ra, Hathor and Mut
and met the current Italian team excavating the site. They
conveyed to us how Sudan is still unexplored territory and
there are many sites yet to be uncovered. However funding for
this archaeological work is non-existent. This group visits
once a year for two weeks and must re-bury their findings until
they return the following season to protect them from looters.
The highlight of our day was when some of us climbed the holy
mountain of Jebel Barkal at sunset, the same mountain that
faced our hotel. From the top we had stunning vistas of the
Nile, the nearby town of Karima and the remains of the temples
below.
Leaving Karima, a place where we came to feel at home, we
headed to our tented camp at Tombos located in the desert. The
site was set up with small tents and shared shower and toilet
tents. As always, we enjoyed a great meal surrounded by a
lovely breeze and a million twinkling stars lighting up the
night sky. The following day we had a long journey to visit two
Egyptian temples and several sites with Neolithic petroglylphs,
many depicting animals long extinct in the region such as
giraffes, elephants and rhinos. On our last day in the area we
embarked on an adventurous journey through a desolate stretch
of the desert. We crossed the Nile by ferry and two hours later
we came upon the majestic temple of Soleb built by Amenhotep
the 3rd dedicated to Amon-Re of Karnak and Nebmaatre, which was
both a deified version of the king himself and a local variant
of Khonsu. Nebmaatre was represented as a moon-god with the
horns of Amon. This temple is the best-preserved Egyptian built
temple in Sudan.
After the visit we had another delightful lunch this time at
the home of the temple guard. He showed us his old black and
white photos from the 1950’s when he assisted the archaeologist
Michela Schiff Giorgini who was exploring the site at the time.
We were retracing our steps back to camp when an unexpected
surprise crossed our path. It was a camel caravan that was
heading to the market of Abu Simble in Egypt, still ten days
away from their destination. Our five cars came to a sudden
halt and once again all fifteen of us were out in a flash
snapping our cameras and taking picture after picture of this
rare opportunity. Those caravans take place a few times a year
starting in middle Sudan in the province of Kordofan and it
takes forty days to get to their final destination in Egypt
where they are sold at a famous market.
Back along the Nile again, we visited the small remains of the
temple of Sesibe with its three solo columns before we re-
crossed the Nile and went to view the petroglyphs along the 3rd
cataract, a very picturesque spot. From here it was back to
Tombos and the solitude of the desert for another starry night!
In the morning we deserted our camp for the comforts of
Karima’s Nubian house. The following day I was picked up to
head back to Khartoum in a private car to catch a flight to
Cairo where I would visit my parents for a few hours before
returning to Michigan. The group stayed behind for another two
days visiting a Coptic desert monastery and a place with
ancient boats. They had another spectacular cruise along the
lake of the 4th Cataract before finally returning to Khartoum
for a last day attending a Friday performance of whirling Sufi
dervishes in the town of Om Dourman before they departed back
to the US.
All in all this was a very satisfying trip. The food throughout
the trip was plentiful, fresh and tasty. We traveled in 4x4
vehicles on paved road and across the barren desert landscape
but our travel days were never too long. Temperatures were hot
during the day and cool at night, perfect for sleeping. Bring
a kerchief for the occasional sand storm (somewhat of a fun
diversion) and also insect repellent. Plenty of bottled water
is available at all times. It’s not a shopper’s paradise (which
was OK by me) but you do come home with many priceless
memories. The sites we saw along the way and the experiences we
had were absolutely amazing. Besides the sighting of the camel
caravan there were many other highlights including markets,
pyramid complexes, tombs, temples and boat rides on the Nile.
Some of our most memorable moments included a couple of
opportunities we had to cross the Nile on ferries which were
very enjoyable experiences as they put us in close proximity to
the locals who always came to talk to us. Another was the time
in Meroe when we made an impromptu stop at a local well where
all neighboring villages came to get their rations in plastic
bottles and in sheepskin bags. It was a cacophony of sounds, a
riot of colors as people, donkeys and camels all gathered
around in the pursuit of their daily lives. To me it resembled
a scene straight from the bible!
If you want to experience this exotic destination our next
departure is scheduled for October 24 through November 08, 2009
and will be accompanied by Egyptologist Professor Thomas
Mudloff. As we are one of only two companies currently offering
tours to Sudan in the US (and the only one whose tour is above
the “rugged and rustic” designation - believe it or not!) the
tours fill very quickly. We are committed to keeping group size
small (maximum number 14 plus Professor Mudloff) in order to
maintain a high level of personalization. The visa procedure
takes several months so we recommend that you sign up soon if
you wish to join the group.
For More Information...Call us at 1-800-645-3233
Email us at info@mideasttrvl.com
or visit our website at www.mideasttrvl.com
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Ihab's Trip review to Uzbekistan (June 2007)
After a series of flights, with tight connections in several
airports, I finally arrived back to Detroit enriched with
beautiful memories of my 10-day visit to Uzbekistan. I
accompanied a cheerful group of 16 travelers, many of whom are
loyal alumni that have taken anywhere from 1 to 5 trips with
us. It was a pleasure to meet them in person and share this
thrilling adventure with them. I would rank our local
guide “Otabek” as one of the TOP guides whom we work with. His
depth of knowledge, his witty sense of humor and his leading
skills ensured that our trip would be a smooth, flawless and
rewarding one. Combined with the joyful attitude of our
travelers, and a country rich in magnificent monuments and
inhabited by hospitable people we had the recipe for a very
successful tour!
I never expected the architecture of Uzbekistan’s beautiful
cities like Khiva, Bukhara, and Samarkand to move me so much.
In their grandeur they rival the majestic buildings and
edifices of Iran. The Great Silk Road that connected China and
Rome played a very important role in the development of this
area. The amalgam of cultures, ethnic tribes and religions make
the modern Uzbeks a very eclectic mix and they all share a
wonderful sense of hospitality to visitors of their land. Of
course the dominant figure in the country is the controversial
Timurlane, or Timur Lank or Amir Timur who from his state
capital of Samarkand, built a vast empire and erected fantastic
monuments.
The Uzbek people are very colorful, displaying a wide variety
of local dresses and head gear. One of their very prominent
characteristics is the wide spread of gold teeth, a remnant of
Soviet occupation and a way of hording their wealth! Those
teeth greeted us everywhere with broad smiles and constant
offers to have our pictures taken with them or them taking our
photos. Body and sign language came in handy and was quite
useful in a country where English is not widely spoken. The
majority of the population speaks Uzbek, or Russian or one of
the local Central Asian languages such as Tajik and Turkic.
Everywhere we went, we saw beautiful crafts and alluring
souvenirs. We often wondered how they compete in a country that
does not benefit from an overflow of tourists. The abundance of
crafts: ceramics, textiles, glassware, carpets, musical
instruments, metal ware, pottery, antiques and wood carvings
can discombobulate the savviest of travelers. I just could NOT
make the leap and start shopping until we were about 2 days
from departing when I finally knew what I was looking for and
what would be a fair price to pay. I brought my wife an
exquisite collection of hand-made silver necklaces and
pendants, some made in India, some local and some from as far
as Afghanistan. I was also lucky to fall in love with a small
Azerbaijani –designed rug woven in Afghanistan! The one thing
that travelers must be aware of is that customs are very strict
about any items that even remotely look old/antique. I learned
my lesson the hard way and now I have a beautiful brass pot
inlaid with semi precious stones kept hostage in the country
(Otabek kindly agreed to keep it indefinitely for me until I
can figure out a way to liberate it from Uzbekistan!
Uzbekistan is endowed with a stunning array of UNESCO World
HERITAGE sites. I connected with my group in the fabled walled-
city of Khiva. What a treat to start my trip in this well-kept,
ancient city as I was still a bit jet lagged and strolling its
quasi-empty alleys and streets acted as a restorative. It is
well deserving of its moniker “Open Air Museum” with its
cluster of beautifully decorated and colorfully-tiled mosques,
domes, mausoleums, madrasas and palaces! What a stunning
introduction to Uzbekistan! That evening, I shared with my
group a delightful dinner at a private home where our hosts
prepared for us many tantalizing local dishes, starting with an
array of tasty mezes such as eggplant, cucumber salad, beets
and carrots as well as a hearty soup. Our small and beautifully
decorated hotel was within walking distance of the city walls
which allowed us to have many strolls back and forth and tour
members have enjoyed the souvenir-hunting experiences.
Our next stop was a full day’s drive through an arid desert to
the Noble city of Bukhara. Once devastated by the Mongols and
Ghenkis Khan’s armies, it revived again, even more beautiful.
Laying in a fertile oasis on the Great Silk Road, Bukhara was
the center of science and culture. Our small hotel was blessed
with a spectacular view from its courtyard overlooking the
impressive Poi Kalyan Minaret and the adjacent blue dome of
one of the Madrasas!
Having been at one time a capital city, Bukhara was famous not
only for its mosques and madrasas but also for its uniquely
shaped caravanserais, and multidomed markets and baths. They
are still well-preserved and still used as shopping malls, with
each set of domes specializing in a particular trade: dome of
jewelers, dome of hat sellers and dome of money exchangers.
Bukhara is the place to purchase a rug or carpet or the
indigenous and famous embroidered suzannis (used as wall
hangings, floor pieces, table clothes or bed covers). One of
the beautiful characteristics of this city is its inner heart,
which is situated around a man-made pool surrounded by
restaurants and cafes. A place where the locals gather for
socializing and escaping the heat of their un-air conditioned
apartments. One evening some of us had a very touching
experience when we visited the Jewish quarter and found one of
the only 2 remaining synagogues open. As we walked in we knew
we were witnessing what is left of a disappearing population
(500 remain in Bukhara). The caretaker offered to show us
around and he took us to the attached school to see some of the
classrooms and then showed us some priceless ancient Torahs.
A few days later our journey took us to Samarkand, Amir
Timur’s “Heart of The Silk Road”. A contemporary of Rome,
Athens and Babylon, Samarkand celebrated its 2500 years’
anniversary. It should be stated that its existing grandeur is
owed to Amir Timur and the Timurid Dynasty which made it the
capital of a powerful state. The legendary heart of the city is
the architectural gem called Registan Square. The square has
been the center of trade and public life for the city since
ancient times. Dominated by a grouping of three colossal
madrasas the ensemble is a unique world jewel. Laying our eyes
on the square touched all of us as we all stood in awe. It
reminded me of my first sight of the main square of Isfahan! It
just took my breath away! We then spent a full day touring the
many monuments of the city and one afternoon, we headed to the
neighboring state of Tajikistan (only an hour and a half drive)
to visit the remaining layers of the ancient city of Penjikent.
We were all disappointed that the Tajik authorities did not put
any stamps in our passports and they did not even care to view
our passports when leaving their country to go back to
Samarkand! That evening we attended a very spectacular and
almost mystical Sound & Light show at Registan Square.
On many occasions we were so pleased to have our meals in
private houses, which not only were some of the best meals we
had, but it allowed us a behind-the-scenes view of how Uzbek
homes looked like on the inside. Typically with a courtyard, a
covered Iwan –or open-air roofed terrace, and the living
spaces on the upstairs, so as to be away from the eyes of
visitors. We enjoyed many wonderful meals, accompanied by a
cold Russian beer and some of the most delicious fruits I have
ever eaten, especially their peaches, apricots, cherries,
melons and tiny apples! One day we even had a treat when we
went for a wine tasting event where we sampled a good variety
of Uzbek wines, let me tell you, some were awarded in
International competitions!
Well, under the space limitation and trying not to bore you my
esteemed readers, I will stop here and will not expand further
on my experience, which you can probably tell by now has been
an unforgettable one. I almost want to go into every detail and
reflect on each and every wonderful moment and experience I
had. There is no way I can fairly convey my thrill and
enchantment with Uzbekistan and I highly urge you to visit this
intriguing country to savor all these beautiful things for
yourself. We are planning 2 yearly tours to the Central Asian
republics: one in May 2008 (tentative dates May 16-31) and
possibly will be led by my colleague Michelle Gervais whom many
of you know and have met on some of our other trips; and the
other will be during the first 2 weeks of October 2008. We hope
that you will take the opportunity to join us and create your
own memorable moments.
Sincerely,
Ihab Zaki
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Exploring the Armenian highlands with my
group (Oct 2008)
Greetings Fellow Travelers,
After a long anticipated period, close to 3 years, I finally
got my act together and visited Armenia, escorting one of our
groups that was touring there for 1 week, followed by Iran for
2 weeks. I wasn’t sure what to expect from this country, but
something about it had always appealed to me. Maybe it is its
ancient Christian heritage, maybe the resilience of its people
to survive as a special ethnic group with its own language
throughout millennia, or maybe it was the vision of their
traumatic genocide at the hands of the Turks in 1915, followed
by Soviet rule and now their emergence (in 1991) as an
independent country. I never knew how powerful the Armenian
kingdom throughout its glorious past, nor did I realize its
tremendous influence on the crossroads of various empires and
civilizations, such as the Parthian, Persian, Seljuk and Mongol.
We arrived late at night into Yerevan and were met by our guide
Anna who greeted us with a smile and the 16 of us, all
anticipating a wonderful adventure, boarded a large,
comfortable bus and headed to our lodgings. I knew I was in for
a delightful surprise as soon as we arrived at our hotel, the
Marriott, in the heart of the city overlooking the majestic
Republic Square. Surrounded by elegant architecture constructed
with red tufa stone and an abundance of beautifully-lit turn of
the century buildings, the square is the true heart of the city
of Yerevan, a growing metropolis of about 2 million people! Our
tour began the following morning as we set out into the
beautiful crisp fall weather (in the mid 60’s and sunny) with
our capable lecturer Professor Gregory Areshian on a stroll to
visit the grand building that houses the National Museum
overlooking the main square. For the next 2 hours we were given
a comprehensive overview of the marvels of Armenian history and
archaeology. Then after a lovely lunch we had some free time to
explore the huge open air market called “Vernisage” where we
browsed through art work, antiques, carpets, and silverware.
Next morning, we drove through beautiful landscape under the
shadow of the impressive Mt. Ararat to explore the Roman temple
of Garni; later we toured an Armenian monastery perched on a
cliff. After a wonderful lunch, we journeyed back to Yerevan
for a sobering visit to the Genocide Museum. To lighten the
mood, we took a fun tour of a cognac factory followed by wine
and cognac sampling, which relaxed everyone and gave us a good
start bonding together as a group! We wished we could take
some home with us, but knowing that in a few days we’ll be
crossing to Iran, it was not possible.
Our third day took us again through many mountains and valleys
in the Armenia Highlands to visit some of the country’s
impressive monasteries and cathedrals. We began with a tour of
St. Hripsime in the town of Ejmiatsin where in 304 AD the
Armenian Church was born. Our next stop was Zvartnots
Cathedral, where we were serenaded by an all girl choir singing
some beautiful melodies from the Armenian church repertoire.
Later on we paid a visit to the magnificent building housing
the famous manuscripts. Our next two days took us to the
northern part of the country through some of the spectacular
vistas of Armenia, soaring peaks and rushing rivers as well as
many forests covered with trees with stunning fall colors. We
made several stops at monasteries, each in its own beautiful
setting, one on Lake Sevan, another overlooking Mt. Aragats
(Armenia’s second highest peak) and we ended in a small cozy
hotel along the river bank where we enjoyed a delightful
dinner, accompanied by some great wines. We returned to Yerevan
passing by more monasteries and through small villages and we
were treated to a family-hosted lunch at a home in one of the
villages. We feasted on homemade food and got a glimpse into
the dwelling of a middle class family in modern time Armenian.
Roman temple in Garni
Gregory entrancing us with information
Picnic lunch at Dvin’s dig house
Carahounch – or stone henge field
Our days were always thrilling and filled with informative
knowledge given to us by Anna and Professor Areshian, whom I
would not hesitate to consider one of the most knowledgeable
scholars of the ancient world and its antiquities. He took us
through the old empire’s timeline, events and anecdotes in the
most captivating manner! We had returned to Yerevan with an
appreciation for what we had seen and learned and an eagerness
to continue the journey. After partaking in another of
Marriott’s lavish breakfasts, we packed our bags to start the
drive south. I must say that between our lunches and dinners,
we had experienced a wonderful array of Armenian dishes and
cuisines. The planning of meals was perfect, as we dined in
typical, charming restaurants, always with appetizers, cheeses
and delicious salads followed by a main course. The owner of
the local agency joined us on many occasions and was extra
generous in offering us wine, beer and local cognacs and
everyone in the group agreed that her constant attention to the
group made us feel very welcome in her country.
The day we left Yerevan to head south was another one filled
with adventures, the highlight being our visit to Dvin, the
site that Gregory has been excavating for many seasons. He
gave us the royal treatment which included a fabulous
orientation followed by a snack at their dig house. From here
we drove to one of the most impressive monasteries in Armenia,
Khor Vorap which is at the foot of Mt Ararat, very close to the
Turkish Border. We finally glimpsed Ararat’s peak without a
cloud, and stopped to take endless photographs before
continuing on.
Lunch was a treat as we picnicked on BBQ pork at a cave within
a spectacular gorge with a gushing river passing through it!
Afterwards Gregory had a another surprise for us - a special
visit to an active excavation site in a Neolithic cave where
prunes, grapes and seeds that date as far back as 4000 BC have
been discovered, along with skeletons and various artifacts.
As we climbed to reach the cave he gave us insights on the
fascinating details of the excavators’ current work and future
plans. Most of the site and its discoveries have not been
published as of yet but the National Geographic Society has
allocated funds to continue work in that unique area!
Khor Vorap Monastery at the shadow of Mt. Ararat
Noravank Monastery
We finally arrived in a charming mountain town called Goris
where we had our last night in Armenia at an alpine-looking
lodge with beautiful décor and very inviting rooms. Nellie,
the owner, joined us for dinner which was a true farewell
event. We all partook in the savory Apricot-Vodka and cognac
and the group was animated as they toasted their wonderful week
in Armenia. On the last day, we left Goris and climbed through
lush forests situated on stunning mountains to elevations as
high as 8000 feet. Following the Arax River, we continued on
to the Iranian border crossing at the town of Meghri. An
uneventful passage landed us into Iran and from there we met
our guide Seyed and our capable Iranian driver Bahram with his
large bus. They took us on a long drive as we continued along
the Arax River (which in that stretch divides Iran from Armenia
and Azerbaijan).
From here we would continue to Tehran where I would leave the
tour and fly home. I was sad to leave as the group was so
homogeneous and had been by far one of the best I had ever
accompanied. They were courteous to each other, and helpful to
those who needed physical assistance to access some sites. Our
real trooper was Gladys Young, an 89-year-old woman with a 20-
year-old’s gusto, who never wanted to miss a site!
Although my stay in Armenia was fascinating, I departed with
the feeling that there was so much left to see. One week can
hardly do this country justice. I encourage you, if you have
extra time, to extend your trip to 9 days. That said, I hope I
have whetted your appetite and made you curious to see this
amazing country for yourself. Now is the time as it has not yet
been “discovered” by commercial tourism and you feel as if you
have the place to yourself. Join us on our Caucasus tour of
Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan scheduled for May 07 to 26,
2009.
Ihab Zaki
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An amazing journey in Algeria - April 2006
Greetings Fellow Travelers,
In April 2006 I was delighted to take a quick tour of Algeria
and wanted to share some of the highlights with you. I feel
that this country is one of North Africa’s best kept secrets.
Everyone is far more familiar with its neighbors: Egypt and
Morocco, which have been popular tourist destinations for
years, and Libya, the country that everyone flocked to as soon
as the embargo was lifted. Even Tunisia is most familiar to
most because of its spectacular mosaics. I’m here to tell you
that Algeria combines the best of what these countries have to
offer.
Remnants of the French occupation remain in the architecture,
food and signage that you see in the capital city of Algiers.
No tour of the city would be complete without a visit to the
Kasbah. Situated on the Mediterranean coast, this unique kind
of Medina has been declared a World Heritage Site (One of seven
in the country) by UNESCO. The mystery of times past comes
alive as you explore the narrow streets and alleyways of this
typical Islamic city.
Our tour took us south to Tamanrasset, a desert oasis town
famous for its Tuareg inhabitants and its markets with
indigenous articrafts. We spent a few days traveling by Jeep
over dunes, across vast expanses of sand dotted by some amazing
desert formations. We viewed the ancient carvings and rock art
paintings which date between 5,000 to 10,000 years old. While
the art is interesting, the scenic landscape is equally
impressive and conjures up romantic pictures of nomads and
caravans. The days were warm and the nights were pleasant.
There is something very soothing about sleeping under the stars
far away from the bright city lights, though in our case we
were under the cover of a roof. Still, the night sky in the
desert is quite a dramatic and impressive sight.
While our excursion to the southern desert was part of our
planned itinerary, I have decided that it will be offered as an
extension to our 2007/2008 trips, rather than be included in
the tour. After having visited the area, I highly recommend
that you consider adding it because I don’t think you will be
disappointed. I will be happy to talk to you about it and give
you any information you need to help you reach a decision.
The accommodations, though rustic, were comfortable. Bathrooms
are shared and water is rationed. As you can see the picnic
lunches, prepared by our Tuareg hosts, were one of the
highlights of our adventure. Descended from ancient Berber
tribes of North Africa, the Tuareg moved southward to escape
Arab invasions, which began in the 7th century. Named Taureor,
abandoned of God by crusading Arabs, they refer to themselves
as the Isashaghen, the noble and the free. Historically camel
breeders and traders, they ruled the trade routes that crossed
the Sahara and brought silver, ivory and gold to the north.
They refused to integrate with other Berber tribes maintaining
their own distinctive style. They are known as the blue men of
the Sahara because the indigo used to dye their robes, rubs off
on their skin.
I would have to say that Ghardaia, the chief town of the M’zab,
was probably my favorite spot on the tour. Built in a stony,
barren valley of the northern Sahara, it is a center of date
production and of the manufacture of rugs and cloth. The city
was founded in the 11th century by Muslim Kharijite fleeing
persecution by the orthodox Muslims of the North. It is the
traditional heart of the M’zab valley and home of the Ibadi
Muslim sect in Algeria. It is one of UNESCO’s World Heritage
and has preserved its original medieval architecture remarkably
well. Walking the narrow streets and through the market square
you truly feel you have been transported back in time!
The Mozabites are a distinct Berber people, living in the
Sahara, are part of a sect of Islam known as the kharejites.
This unique group of people speaks a Berber dialect called
Tumzabt. They have their on culture with strict norms of
behavior for men and women which have been preserved for
centuries. The men have a distinctive traditional dress of
baggy beige colored pants worn with a long shirt. Women will
often wear a long white cloak which covers everything but their
feet, and left eye. Skillful, enterprising and well organized,
the Mazabites are known to be astute, honest businessmen. The
main markets are the domain of men as many are small shop
owners involved in trade and import.
One of the best-kept secrets of the country is their treasure
trove of Roman ruins. Its two most stunning Roman Gems are:
Timgad and Djemila. Timgad lies on the northern slopes of the
Aures Mountains and was created as a military colony by Emperor
Trajan in 100 AD.
Both Timgad and Djemila are excellent examples of Roman town
planning adapted to a mountain location. Djemila is possibly
the most beautiful site with its temples, Hillside Theater,
forums and well preserved columns and arches, on the shores of
the Mediterranean sits Tipasa, an ancient Punic trading post
conquered by Rome and turned into a strategic base for the
conquest of the kingdoms of Mauritania.
This site is comprised of a unique group of Phoenician, Roman,
Paleo-Christian and Byzantine ruins. All three are listed as
World Heritage sited by UNESCO. Guelma is another Roman site
that boosts a very impressive theater. Aside from the above
famous spots, our groups will visit many other Roman ruins of
various sizes and importance.
These are just a few of the many highlights of Algeria. Every
day there was something new to discover. I also want to
reinforce that Algerians are very receptive to have their
picture taken, plus they are extremely hospitable to tourists
and particularly to Americans…Algeria is truly a photographer’s
dream…Breathtaking landscapes, beautiful scenery, incredible
ruins, interesting faces…you can find it all here. On top of
all these wonders, its cuisine is surely a delight and its
wines are some of the best I have ever tried, even in
comparison to French and Italian wines!
I hope I have whetted your appetite and made you curious to see
this amazing country for yourself. Now is the time as it has
not yet been “discovered” and you feel as if you have the place
to yourself. |  |
My discovery of the Imperial cities of
Morocco - January 2008!
Morocco has always held a special place in my heart as I have
always been intrigued by its natural beauty, its exotic flair
and its architectural gems. After speaking with Professor David
Lancy who voiced some concerns about the hotels we will be
using for the group he’s leading in May, I did not have to
think twice and left to do a quick (6 day) country visit to
inspect the properties and to meet the guide and the local
staff who will be handling the group while they are on tour in
Morocco. I also had the opportunity to inspect the vehicles the
group will be using as I drove the same route that they will be
taking. Of course I had to sample the various food venues too!
Now that I am back in snowy and cold Michigan I realize how
much Morocco is a land of discovery – brilliant and beautiful,
secretive, mysterious and colorful!
I arrived mid-afternoon to a very clean and well organized
airport. So it is was a bit of a letdown when I stepped onto
the tarmac at Mohamed V Airport, and discovered that it’s not
Humphrey Bogart’s Casablanca of romance and intrigue anymore.
Instead it is a city where the traditional tajine goes down
easily with Starbucks’ latte that beckons through the door. I
realized that I had entered a country that has embraced its
legacies, not been torn apart by them. I was relieved when I
was met by my capable local guide Idriss and a gentle, smiling
driver called Abdou.
After some rest at the hotel, I ventured out to visit the
city. Casablanca with its tall buildings, myriad avenues and
teeming traffic, quietly lives up to its “big city” reputation
and dismisses all stereotypes of what Africa is like. The
crowning glory of the city is the Hassan II Mosque, a vast
edifice of delicate arches, exquisite patterns and a feeling of
magnificence that is rarely seen today. It has a place in the
record books as the third largest religious structure in the
world, and so has its own pride of place among the sights of
the city. The square minarets are the most interesting feature,
as they are completely different from the smoothly rounded
Islamic minarets that are seen in most other parts of the world.
Next day, I was feeling refreshed and ready to hit the capital
city of Rabat, which is also the official administrative
capital of the country. Glittering and visibly cosmopolitan,
the European influence is felt as soon as you step onto the
palm-lined avenue in front of the sprawling royal palace and
suddenly the Mediterranean seems so much closer. Apart from the
beautiful mausoleum of the late King Mohamed V and the museum
which has some perfectly preserved bronze busts, what makes
Rabat a worthwhile stopover are the ruins at Chellah.
Originally the site of a Jupiter temple, the vestiges of a
series of Roman baths still remain, as do faint traces of the
magnificent triple-arch that was the gateway to the temple. A
necropolis stretches away from the temple towards the top of
the hill and once proud Doric columns are strewn around the
crumbling remnants of a wide flagstone-lined avenue.
Heading south I continued to Meknes, the Versailles of Morocco
and a lovely example of an Imperial city. Known for its
monumental palace, granaries and stables as well as the most
beautiful of Morocco’s gates: Bab El-Mansour. Along the way I
had lunch at a roadside restaurant that specialized in cooking
meat (specifically whole mutton) in pits. My cholesterol over-
indulgent meat feast was fantastic and I would now have the
opportunity to work some of it off as I would next be exploring
the magnificent ruins of Volubilis. It is difficult to
comprehend the grandeur that was once the Roman Empire, but
Volubilis, like the Colosseum of Rome and the ruins of Pompeii,
brings you closer to understanding how progressive “Pax Romana”
really was. The wide main street laid with flagstones, divided
the city between the patricians and the plebeians. The olive
presses; the intricate mosaics depicting myriad themes; the
shaded courtyards; the drainage system that’s a feat of
engineering in itself and the triumphal arch looking out
proudly over the hills beyond, all are the image of a
civilization that was truly splendid in its mastery over
culture and design. It makes one wonder whether we as a
civilization have anything to leave behind which will make us
worth discovering, worth knowing about, for the archaeologists
of the future. Idriss and I arrived at the perfect time of day
(sunset) and we had the site to ourselves. I especially enjoyed
the desolate atmosphere. A truly memorable experience. On to
Fes for a good night’s rest.
Next morning brought a full day of exploring the ancient town
of Fes. The most intriguing part is the souq, a jumble of
shops apportioned into a vast network of alleys, each plying a
different trade. Jewels sparkle in one alley, silk flows
through another; artisans shape bronze at one corner, and a
little way ahead, the blacksmiths gather. Each pocket has its
own sounds and smells that give it a distinct feel. Terrace
restaurants are spread throughout, from where one can look out
over the tangle of alleys and soak up the atmosphere and the
sun. It is a lovely walk through the Old Medina with its many
beautiful minarets dating to various Moroccan Berber dynasties
and its maze of alleys and little roads filled with merchants
selling all sorts of meats, fish and foodstuff, as well as
artifacts such as brass and copper lamps, leatherwork and hand
woven rugs. What makes Fes different is an energy that can only
be found in a marketplace – where people are matching wits for
bargains, judgment is an art and worth is measured by feel, not
brand names. I behaved myself as my wife instructed me not to
go crazy and splurge on shopping sprees!
Time for a few stops at some hotels and I fell in love with one
of the old restored mansions/palaces that are currently
converted to boutique hotels, named Riads. The drive after
lunch was 9 hours as I would be spending the night in
Marrakesh, the jewel city of Morocco and its most flavorful.
Though long, it was a lovely and varied drive through many
different landscapes. Frequent stops were made along the way
including one in the Mid-Atlas Mountains in a small town that
resembled an alpine village in Switzerland. It is a ski town
with red-roofed homes, clean streets and expensive cars.
Continuing through the mountains along winding roads dotted
with pine trees and patches of snow the scenery changes to a
typical desert, leaving the mountain range behind. The
countryside is mostly farmland with little villages scattered
on the sides of the roads. Finally I fell asleep and woke in
time for dinner at which time I realized we had entered the
ocher colored city of Marrakesh, the gateway to the Sahara
desert. Checked in at my Riad, which was a lovely 11-room
restored mansion once belonging to a wealthy 17th century
merchant. I was so exhausted I ordered a pizza, went into my
beautifully-decorated room and had a great night’s sleep.
In Marrakesh I was greeted by roads lined with orange trees and
my first glimpse of the medina (old city) and the famous Djemaa
el Fnaa Square. Situated at the north end of the medina, the
reality that is Djemaa el Fnaa seems like a fairytale. It’s a
fair of aromas, people, shows, activity, the glow of torches in
the night sky, the bustle of generations of families walking
by, the art of craftsmanship and the craft of salesmanship. As
in any open market, there are people shouting to catch your
attention and herd you to their stall. What’s most remarkable
is that this fair springs to life every single day of the year,
summer or winter. People stream in and out till the early
morning hours, with an expectation of merriment, all caught up
in an invisible air of festivity. The souq right behind the
square, is one of the biggest in Morocco. Walk around and you
will find everything from silverware to prickly pear. It is a
beehive of activity, the air is busy with haggling voices and
the lamps light up faces intent on picking up “something for
the alcove back home.” So of course I weakened and bought 2
lovely Berber-made side tables inlaid with colorful semi-
precious stones after 2 hours of bargaining and haggling with
the store staff! Not an item to carry, even in checked luggage,
so I had them shipped. I will be spending an anxious two weeks
until they arrive and I see my wife’s (hopefully positive!)
reaction.
The end of my tour had arrived and I would be making my way
back to Casablanca and from there to Spain for a travel show. I
knew that I would come away from this visit with a new
enthusiasm for this vibrant, exciting country. Morocco is a
land that encourages you to dig deep, to immerse yourself in
the smells and sounds that surround you. It changes you from a
mere sightseer to an adventure-seeker and adds to your bounty
of experiences, rather than just to your photo-album. The land
of the Maghreb is all about the infectious zest that is the
other side of Africa, the part that a travel brochure can never
capture.
Call me with any questions you may have and hopefully you can
join us in Sep. 2009 for our wonderful adventure to Morocco –
Ihab Zaki
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